Ottolinger, founded by christa bösch and cosima gadient, showcased its spring/summer 2023 collection during paris fashion week. Set in a gallery in central paris, guests were found sitting in a pile of mattresses, expectant for what was about to come. 

Bösch and gadient favor sartorial experimentation through layered skirts and trousers, matching trompe l’œil pieces, sweeping dresses, skinny thigh-high boots, pointed heels, and motor jackets that come in an array of materials and styles. The ss23 ottolinger woman is ready to take a plane, a motorbike, an f1 car. She is unapologetic, expressive, emotional — she shows femininity unfastened from rigidities of gender.

Details include metallic studs, signature cut-outs, loose straps, leather-based recycled polyester, tantalizing mesh, lace, crinkle-effect accessories, rubber, neoprene and chunky twisted sunglasses that provide a welcome jolt of visual vitality. Electric hues of reds, blues and greens contrast against the minimal shading and toning of the ripped-up silhouettes.

The collection maintains high-peak cut-outs, industrial elements and signature deconstructed tailoring, but brings a newer, more subverted spirit, inspired by summer girl boss ebullience. “you are ready. You will not slow down. And now you truly understand that old greek myth; you will never look back,” finishes the show’s press release.